Patio Leveling

Denver Metro · Family-owned since 1988 · (303) 526-2222

Sunken patios pool water against the house and pull the back step out of code. Lifting the slab back to grade fixes it without tearing out the concrete.

  • Free in-person estimate
  • Portable pump, custom-batched slurry
  • Small 1-5/8" holes, no demolition
  • Stamped & colored patios welcome
38 years in Denver
Portable pump, custom-batched slurry
Free in-person estimate
10-yd material truck, 2x the usual
How it works

Four steps, one crew.

Trevor quotes every job in person, free, and schedules the work with you at the estimate.

  1. 1

    Free in-person estimate

    Trevor walks the slab with you. Measures the drop, checks drainage, points out what to fix and what to leave alone. You get a written number on the spot.

  2. 2

    Drill 1-5/8" pump holes

    We core small holes through the slab, normally spaced about 4 to 6 feet apart, in a pattern matched to the lift. No demolition.

  3. 3

    Pump slurry, lift to grade

    Water, sandy loam soil, and cement, batched on site with our portable pump so the mix suits your slab. The slurry fills the voids as the slab rises to grade.

  4. 4

    Patch and walk on it

    We patch the holes flush with concrete and clean up. Trevor will tell you at the estimate how long to keep weight off the slab for your specific job.

Your patio didn't fail. The corner under the downspout did.

Patio leveling is the most predictable job in concrete. After decades of lifting patios across Denver, Arvada, Lakewood, and the rest of the metro, the story is usually the same: the corner closest to the downspout went first. Roof water hits the soil at the slab edge, washes out the base a little every storm, and the patio tips toward the house or away from it.

Either direction is trouble. A patio tipped toward the house pools water against your foundation, and that's a bigger bill than any slab repair. Tipped away, it pulls the step-down at the back door past code height and puts a hinge crack through the middle. The fix is the same either way. We drill 1-5/8" holes, pump a slurry of water, sandy loam soil, and cement into the washed-out void, and bring the slab back to the grade it was poured at. No demolition, and the surface you already paid for stays.

What patio leveling costs

Trevor quotes every patio in person, free, and puts the number in writing. We don't publish price ranges because the void under the slab, not the slab on top, drives the cost, and you can't see the void from the street. As an industry yardstick, HomeAdvisor puts a typical residential mudjacking job at $300 to $2,500 or more. Tear-out and replacement lands far beyond that once demolition and haul-off are in the number, which is why lifting an intact patio is usually the smarter spend.

The estimate visit is also where the thing that decides whether the repair lasts gets checked: drainage. Fix the downspout, then lift. Extend the drain line well past the slab edge and the lift stops fighting the washout that caused it. Skip that step and the same corner starts sinking again. A downspout extension costs a fraction of a second visit from anyone.

Stamped, colored, or exposed aggregate? Still liftable.

The most common question we get on patios: what happens to the finish? Mudjacking works from underneath, so the surface stays. The pump holes are the only mark, and we patch them after the lift. Up close, on day one, you'll spot the patches. After a season of sun and foot traffic most homeowners stop noticing them. On a stamped pattern, hole placement gets extra thought: the fewest holes the lift allows, placed where the patches blend in cleanly.

Cracked patios are a judgment call, and it gets made in person. The candidate rules are the same ones we apply to every slab: the concrete needs to be intact, in good shape, and at least 24 inches wide. Concrete that's 40 to 50 years old has usually spent its service life and should be replaced instead of lifted. When a patio fails that test, we say replace it. That's not the answer every contractor gives with a truck full of material sitting at the curb. It's still the right one.

How the lift goes

  • First, the holes: 1-5/8" across, normally spaced about 4 to 6 feet apart, placed where the slab needs to rise and hidden in pattern lines when we can.
  • Then the pump: our pump is portable, with a short hose, brought right to the slab. That lets us batch the slurry to the exact thickness the job needs instead of whatever mix survives a long hose run from the street. The slab comes up slowly while we watch the surface, and when it sits at grade, we stop.
  • Last, the patch: holes get filled flush and the site gets cleaned up. Trevor covers cure times and when the furniture goes back at the estimate, since the mix and the weather set that answer.

The slurry is water, sandy loam soil, and cement. Nothing exotic, no foam chemicals, and once cured it's hard, heavy fill that doesn't wash out the way loose soil does. If you're weighing methods, the comparison table below covers where poly foam wins and where it doesn't. For a patio on Front Range clay, it usually doesn't.

Worth doing while the truck is there

A sunken patio almost never travels alone. The same drainage that took the patio corner down is usually working on the walkway panels beside it, and sometimes the driveway out front. Trevor checks all of it during the estimate, quotes each piece separately, and you pick what gets done. Having it all looked at in one visit costs you nothing.

Winter work is possible when the weather and the ground allow it. The slurry takes longer to set in the cold, but it sets the same; solidly frozen ground is what rules a job out, and Trevor will tell you how the season affects your schedule. Browse finished patios on our work page, or read how patio leveling works in more detail on the blog. When you're ready, request the free estimate and Trevor will come measure.

Field notes

Notes from the field

The common failure point
Patios tend to sink at the corner closest to the downspout. Roof water hits the soil at the slab edge, washes out the base a little every storm, and the slab follows the void down. Fix the drainage, then lift, or the same corner starts sinking again.
When a patio is a candidate
A slab is a candidate for lifting when it\'s intact, in good shape, and at least 24 inches wide. Concrete that\'s 40 to 50 years old has usually reached the end of its life and should be replaced instead of lifted.
Method comparison

Mudjacking vs. polyurethane foam for patio work

We do mudjacking only. Here's the honest difference, including where foam wins.

  Mudjacking (what we do) Polyurethane foam
MaterialWater, sandy loam soil, and cement slurryTwo-part expanding polymer
Hole size in slab1-5/8"5/8"
Cure timeDepends on the job; confirmed at the estimateFaster initial set
Weight of fillHeavy, dense fill, far heavier than foamLight expanding foam
Cost vs. mudjackingBaselineTypically higher
Best forDriveways, patios, garage and basement floors, sidewalksThin slabs, indoor work, very tight access
Long-term hold in Front Range clayStrong (heavier than clay)Good, but lighter than the soil it sits on

Foam isn't bad. It's the right tool for some jobs. We've never used it because for the work we do, the math says concrete every time.

Common questions

Patio questions we hear most

Will mudjacking work on a stamped or colored patio?

Often, yes, when the slab is a good candidate. We drill 1-5/8" holes through the slab and patch them after the lift. On a decorative finish the patches are visible up close, so hole placement and the cosmetic outcome get talked through at the estimate before any drilling starts.

How long does the lift hold?

The cured slurry is hard and heavy, so it doesn't wash out the way loose fill does. As long as the drainage problem that sank the slab stays solved, the lift holds.

Can you lift a cracked patio?

Mudjacking lifts the slab; it doesn't fuse cracks. The slab needs to be intact and in good shape to be a candidate. Trevor looks at every patio in person and tells you straight whether yours qualifies.

Do you work in winter?

Winter work depends on conditions. The ground has to be workable and temperatures above freezing for the slurry and the hole patches to set right, so a frozen stretch puts lifting on hold until things thaw. Trevor will tell you what the season means for your job.

Do I need to be home for the work?

Trevor quotes every job in person, and that visit is where scheduling and access get sorted out. Most exterior work doesn't require you to be home for the lift itself.

Service area

Where we lift slabs

Proudly serving the greater Denver metro. Free in-person quotes. Not sure we reach you? Call and ask.

What Denver homeowners say

Real reviews from real customers across the Front Range. Pulled live from Google and other review platforms.

Who runs the work

Trevor Gaines

Owner · AAA Concrete Raising · Denver, CO

Trevor Gaines owns and runs AAA today, carrying on the operation Howard Denton started in 1988. Trevor runs every estimate himself. He'll tell you when a lift is the right call, when it's not, and when you'd be better off replacing the slab. That's the call most contractors won't make. It's why customers come back to us when the next slab moves.

Call Trevor: (303) 526-2222

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